#mark (awl)

[kinokoshoujoart]

did not expect to find forbidden inaccessible gay autocannibalism variant of rock’s after-marriage line hidden away in the dialogue files for a wonderful life special edition for the ps2 but here we are

context:

[yazziescribbles]

This weeks prompt for #awonderfuljune23 is Heart Event

It’s obvious Gustafa is my favourite, so I drew two versions with Pony and Mark!

[caramelcomics]

My page illustration for the recent @lifeinthevalley zine! It was a lot of fun to go back to this game. I hope I can try out the remake soon!

[joshseoh]

hair cc pack coming this week!

Based on the bachelors of Harvest Moon & Story of Seasons A Wonderful Life!

[princefleabitten]

Some AWL Farmers💕

[toadancobills]

My artwork for the SoS AWL Fanworks contest!!!

I tried to submit more than one but it only let me fill out the form once lol so I only got to submit the first one. I know I’m not a great artist, but I love AWL so much so I thought I would try!

[phagocytics]

something borrowed, something blue

[bokumonocosplay]

The first Story of Seasons: A Wonderful Life character reference is the amazing Mark!

(at least I think that's still his name 😅)

[sheliesshattered]

10 grommets set, 22 to go

[dethl]

its really funny to me that the AWL remake has full customization, but my farmer's still just gonna be the default, because i just look like this irl

[fiftysevenacademics]

Wake up babe a new open access review about Ice Age fashion just dropped.

Paleolithic eyed needles and the evolution of dress (Science Advances 28 June 2024)

This article uses the spread of bone awls and needles to trace the evolution of clothing from simple, minimally protective coverings to finely tailored, insulating garments across the geography of the Last Glacial Maximum. Not surprisingly, needle use is associated with cold climates and the need for warm, fitted clothing. But the wide variation in needle size, including very small ones for fine, delicate work, along with frequent discovery of shell and bone beads showing use wear consistent with rubbing against clothing, shows the evolution of clothing into dress. Bodily adornment transitioned to clothing to mark identity and status.

Fig. 4. Puncture marks consistent with leather hole punching on a bone fragment at Canyars, Catalonia, dated to 39,600 cal B.P. Scale bars, 1 cm. Photos: L. Doyon, F. d’Errico.

Fig. 5. Morphological variation in the size and shape of Late Pleistocene eyed needles. Scale bar, 1 cm. Modified from d’Errico et al.

Fig. 2. Nassarius kraussianu shell beads from Blombos Cave Still Bay layers, southern Africa, dated to approximately 73,000 to 70,000 years ago. Arrows indicate use-wear facets. Photos: F. d’Errico [modified after d’Errico et al.]

[kinokoshoujoart]

30 days of Harvest Moon day 23 - wedding / rhythm

these are the genders apparently i don’t make the rules (natsume and xseed rock makes the rules)

[cereovo]

DIY notebook/junk journal tutorial for people on a budget

I found myself watching a lot of bookbinding videos recently & had the realization: I could probably do that at home, for free. And I was right. So before an influencer convinces you to drop 50 dollars on a book press and a fancy bonefolder, here's how:

STEP 0: MATERIALS

Cardstock - This can be any slightly thicker paper. I've been using postcards and blank greeting cards, because they're already around the size I want, but you can even use the cardboard from a cereal box if you want something sturdier.

Scissors/Xacto knife - You need at least the scissors, but the Xacto knife makes things a lot easier. If you have an actual paper cutter, use that instead.

Glue - your choice, I've been using modpodge but you can use a glue stick, etc instead.

Sturdy tape - duct tape, electrical tape, masking tape, etc. It needs to hold up to wear and tear; washi/scotch tape will not work.

Binder or Paper clips - binder clips are my preference but large paper clips work in a pinch

Ruler(s) - If you have them, I recommend using two rulers: one metal (if you're cutting paper with an xacto knife), one plastic or wood (this will be your bonefolder).

Pen or pencil

Paper scraps - These will be the pages of your notebook. You want them to be the same size or bigger than your covers. You can use literally anything; I've been using the last blank pages of old planners and notebooks, end pages of old books, and various scraps that would otherwise be thrown away.

Safety pin - Awl substitute

Needle and thread

ADDITIONALLY you should have a) a surface to glue on and b) a surface to cut on. A piece of scrap cardboard works well for both.

--

STEP 1: DECORATING THE COVER

Take the cardstock you want to use for your cover, cut it to size if you need to, and fold it in half, using the side of your wooden/plastic ruler to flatten the crease. If you want to decorate it, take a magazine clipping or paper scrap of your choice and glue it on one side ( shown below). Avoid gluing anything onto the crease.

Flip it over and trim the sides down. Cut off the corners, then glue and fold the sides over. Use the ruler on anything you need to crease.

Flip back over and repeat for the other side! Make sure to leave a gap at the 'spine'.

STEP 2: CREATING A SIGNATURE

A "signature" is a stack of folded papers, aka, your notebook's pages. Take the papers you wish to use, fold each of them in half, and nest them together. I've been using 10 sheets of paper for mine, which will become 40 pages total. It might be harder to fit more than this into a small-sized notebook. Also, I try to arrange the sheets so that the CLEAN EDGES line up at the BOTTOM of the stack, with the rough edges at the top. This way you'll only have to trim 2 sides instead of 3.

Line your cover up with the signature's bottom edge, making sure everything inside is aligned neatly. Then slap on a binder clip and trim off some of the excess material with scissors, if needed.

Use a ruler to mark where the edge of the cover is, then remove the cover to avoid damaging it (but keep the binder clip). Hold the ruler firmly in place slightly to the left of the line you just made. Carefully make repeated, even strokes with your xacto knife along the side of the ruler to cut straight through the layers of paper. Repeat with the top of the signature. A metal ruler is recommended for this step because a sharp xacto knife WILL CUT THROUGH PLASTIC AND WOODEN RULERS. I learned this the hard way, but if you're careful it should be fine. If you have access to an actual paper cutter, skip this step and use that instead!! it's way faster and safer!!

The finished signatures should be the same size as your cover now.

STEP 3: PUTTING IT TOGETHER

Stick your signature into the cover, align everything, then open to the center page. Clip the pages to the cover at the top or bottom, one on each side, in this 'open' position. Make a few marks along the center crease with even spacing.

Awl time. Using your marks as a guide, CAREFULLY push your safety pin through your signature and out through notebook's spine. You might want to use a thumbtack to make things easier on your fingers.

The next step is to sew the sheets together through the holes you made. Unfortunately this is not a sewing tutorial, so if you don't know how to thread a needle you might want to pause here and look that up. I'm using a simple saddle stitch, keeping the knots on the outside. There are many ways to do the actual book binding, including just stapling it, but this is how I do it.

You can remove the binder clips at this point. The only thing left to do is reinforce the spine. Trim the thread and fold your Sturdy Tape of choice over the spine, leaving some excess at both ends. The goal here is mainly to cover up the loose thread. Split the excess along the dotted lines shown below...

...Then stick it down on the insides of the front and back cover.

And you're done!!!!!

Enjoy your cool new handmade notebook!

[literaryvein-reblogs]

Some Tree-related Vocabulary

for your next poem/story

Achene - Small, dry and hard one-seeded fruit.

Afforestation - Establishing a forest on an area which has not previously had trees growing on it.

Allelopathy - The adverse effect on the growth of plants or microorganisms caused by the action of chemicals produced by other living or decaying plants.

Annual rings - a layer of wood (including spring-wood and summer-wood) grown in a single season; best seen in the cross-section of the trunk.

Awl-like leaves - Short leaves that taper evenly to a point; found on junipers and red cedars.

Bole - The main trunk of a tree.

Calyx - Outermost whorl of modified leaves in a flower, usually green, but sometimes showy colored.

Cuneate - Wedge-shaped.

Cyme - Flat-topped flower cluster, central flower opens first.

Defoliation - The loss of leaves or foliage on a plant or tree.

Den tree - A hollow tree used as a home by a mammal.

Drupe - Fleshy fruit with a single stone or pit.

Evergreen - Trees and shrubs that retain their live, green leaves during the winter and for two or more growing seasons.

Heartwood - Nonliving wood (often dark) found in the middle of a tree's stem.

Leaf scar - The mark which remains where a leaf falls off a twig.

Legume - Fruit that is a dry, elongated pod that splits in two, with seeds attached along one edge inside.

Peduncle - Primary flower stalk.

Persistent leaves - Leaves that remain on the tree during winter.

Phloem - Inner bark of a tree that carries food and sugars from the leaves to other parts of the tree.

Pome - Fruit with a fleshy outer coat and a stony layer (similar to plastic) within, with seeds inside the stony layer (apples, pears, etc.).

Samara - Dry fruit with one or two flat wings attached to a seed (as on elms and maples).

Sapwood - Living wood, often light colored, found between the bark or cambium and the heartwood, usually darker colored.

Softwoods - Usually refers to trees that are conifers or cone-bearing; conifers generally have softer wood than angiosperms or hardwoods, but there are many exceptions.

Spring-wood - Wood on the inside of an annual ring, formed during the spring; cells are often thinner-walled.

Summer-wood - Wood on the outside of an annual ring, formed during the summer; this wood is sometimes dark and cells are often thicker-walled.

Sources: 1 2 ⚜ More: Word Lists

[mrghostrat]

since we’re on the topic of bookbinding, i’ve been wanting to get into it but i haven’t actually done any research (yet) other than vibes, so do u have any tips for complete beginners?? :)

@geminibookbinding is who inspired me to finally look up the whole process and figure out where to start! this is the super helpful tutorial i got from them

i had dabbled with binding before though, using Sea Lemon's tutorials to make blank sketchbooks yearsss ago. i still use her text block and diy hardcover videos as a refresher/reminder while i bind!

the biggest thing that stopped me from learning to bind printed fiction was not understanding how to print the text from home, specifically how to get the pages in the right order for signatures. it's actually so easy with some very simple to use programs: QuantumElephant for PC users (free), and I use BookletCreator on Mac ($20)

i want to go into more detail about my process and supplies from a beginner perspective, i hope this helps:

format the text in a word processor

export your document as a single page PDF

enter that PDF file into Quantum Elephant or BookletCreator, to rearrange the pages for your signatures. your program will give you a new PDF file that you can then print.

4. double sided printing: i was so so scared of this at first, but it's incredibly simple. no matter what printer you have, somewhere in your print settings will be an option to print even or odd pages.

print all the even pages first, then when the stack is finished printing, flip them over, insert them back into the paper feed, and print the odd pages.

5. fold the signatures together so you have a stack of little booklets, then mark on the spine where your sewing holes need to be. manually punch the holes using an awl, or diy an awl by stuffing a cork on the end of a straight needle.

6. sewing: take regular sewing thread and run it over a block of beeswax. this makes the thread easier to manage and holds it in place better while you sew. a curved needle is also much easier to use than a straight one, especially for a kettle stitch (using Sea Lemon's tutorial)

7. gluing: glue decorative pages (or plain, but thicker paper) to the front and back to create your end pages, then press the book flat to apply PVA glue to the spine. press it overnight so the glue dries flat. (optional: glue a ribbon to the top of the spine, then sew on headbands) finally glue an additional piece of paper (or mull) around the spine to strengthen it.

8. optional: trim the edges of your book down to create a smooth edge. this one's given me the most trouble because it's very hard to get right with a knife, and the proper supplies are expensive. check your local stationery shop (i.e. Officeworks, Staples) for an industrial guillotine service

9. cover: once you have the final measurements of your text block you can start making the cover. this is essentially gluing cardboard, binders board, or plywood etc to a sheet of fabric. the fabric either needs to be bookcloth, or have some kind of non-porous back so the glue doesn't seep through. you can diy bookcloth from any fabric with tissue paper. then glue the decorate end pages to your cover to attach the textblock!

[nocturnus33]

Let's talk about our fanbinding mistakes

Based on the responses of 135 fanbinders, my very informal consultation indicates that the most common errors we make are

Taking the wrong measurements. 23.7%

Messing up the case in. 20%

Finding a typo after all is said and done. 20%

Staining the book with adhesive. 17.8%

Plus, a 4,4% that said Case upside down (after making the inquiry I realized that it should be part of item n° 2 and not an independent item; duh my fault. So it is plausible to think that "messing up the case in" might be a 24,4%).

Now, let's talk about these mistakes and share our strategies to prevent them.

From my amateur experience:

To get the measurements right, in addition to measuring two or three times, I use an awl, a ruler and a square: I mark what I will cut with a fine pencil or with the awl. When I have used a thick lead pencil, sometimes I fail in a mm. The square is to make sure the angles are straight before cutting. My mistake is not always that I score wrong, but that it is not necessarily straight. Another very obvious tip is to make sure you have good lighting when measuring.

For the adhesive stains, it has helped me to always have two clean wipes within reach, one wet and one dry. I also have a Residue Eraser Rubber Cement Cleaner for when I discover it late.

And you? What helps you to overcome these mistakes? (or make fewer of them)

@renegadeguild